Winter 2023/24 =🥶
After enduring last years miserable, cold, wet, winter in the UK, we had promised ourselves that would be our final UK winter and hoped to spend all future winter months somewhere warmer in the world.
Winter 2024/25 = 😎
Fast forward one year and here we are.
Winter 24/25 is fast approaching and true to our word, in November we managed to nab ourselves a month-long house and pet sit on the Greek island of Corfu.
Corfu
Situated in the Ionian Sea is Corfu, The seventh largest of the Greek islands. It is famous for its history, architecture, culture, cuisine, and, of course, its beautiful beaches.
The island has been influenced by a variety of civilizations over the years, including the ancient Greeks, Romans, Venetians, French, and British, all of whom have left their mark on the island.
Now, it is a top tourist destination with a Mediterranean climate that guarantees its residents and visitors hot summers and mild winters.
The perfect destination to start our warm winter quest.
Neither of us had been to Corfu before so, on our arrival, we were very excited to meet the pets we had agreed to care for during our stay.
The Pets
When I say excited, apprehensive would be a better word to use.
In our eagerness to secure this sit, we had taken a risk and agreed to take care of eight cats. What could possibly go wrong?
Thankfully, our risk paid off and it turned out to be a great house sit.
As the weather was so nice, and the cats home was halfway up a mountain surrounded by trees and nature they spent most of their time outside.
Their freedom to go outside whenever they wanted also gave us the bonus of no litter trays to worry about. All in all, a perfect cat sit!
There were usually one or two cats lounging around the house somewhere.
The only time they were all inside at the same time was twice a day at feeding time which, I have to admit, was a bit manic!
Half an hour before feeding was due, one by one, the cats would start to appear.
By the time we were ready to dish out the food, there were eight hungry cats in the kitchen eagerly waiting to be fed.
For some, the waiting was too much.
Each feeding time was the same.
As fast as we could get eight portions in eight dishes, the cats were nipping in and out, trying to eat the first portions, before the last portions had even been served!
We eventually realised this was a two-man job.
One dished out the food, whilst the other stood close by with a water spray bottle poised ready to dampen the enthusiasm of those who were overly eager.
Once eight portions were ready, each cat had its own bowl and the feeding frenzy ensued!
On the whole, the cats were very easy to care for and by the end of the month, each had a special place in our hearts.
The hardest part was remembering all their names!
The Hosts
Alyson and Denis were the perfect hosts. They were both Swiss but had lived in Corfu for many years. On arrival Dennis picked us up at the airport and Alyson had a meal waiting for us, even though our flight had been delayed and it was Midnight by the time we landed!
After a good nights sleep, we were shown around their lovely home and introduce to their cats before we had a day to ourselves to explore the area.
Then that night Alyson prepared another meal for us and we enjoyed getting to know them and also Nicky, a friend of theirs who had dropped by to say hello to us.
The day after that, Alyson and Denis packed up their motorhome and left for their holiday.
Our Corfu house sit had officially started.
The Home
The home we stayed in was a colourful, and unique property.
It was bought as a derelict, 300-year-old building and then totally renovated into the amazing house it is today.
Alyson is an artist, specialising in mosaics and has examples of her work all over the house and garden.
Denis is a very skilled jack of all trades. There is literally nothing he can’t do.
As a couple, they are the perfect renovation team!
The beautiful house they have created is a feast for the eyes.
The Garden
As beautiful, unique, and impressive as the house, is the garden.
The mountainside location of the property means the garden slopes sharply.
For this reason, it is tiered, and also maze-like, with something new to see at every turn.
A cacti garden, vegetable plots, flowers, an art studio, a wood chopping shed, a swinging seating, an outside dining area, a swimming pool, and a pond that is home to the largest toads I have ever seen are just a few things squeezed into their amazing outside space.
However, the jewel in the crown of the garden is the amazing mountain views that reach over the Corfu mountains to the Ionian Sea. Then further still, as far as the Albanian mountains in the far distance.
During the summer months, the homeowners are involved in a scheme where people invite others into their gardens for enjoyment and inspiration which sounds like a great idea.
I would be very proud to show off this garden if it were mine
We felt very lucky to have it all to ourselves during our stay.
The Location
We often say our nomadic, pet-sitting lifestyle is not one long holiday.
Well, it’s hard to deny that spending a sunny November in Corfu felt just like that!
Our home for November was in Lafki, a typical Corfu mountain village 500mtrs altitude, in the far North of Corfu.
The village has a population of fifty residents, twenty or so properties, one coffee shop and a church.
No matter how small a village is in Greece, there’s always at least one church!
The nearest shop was a twenty-minute drive down the mountain to the town of Acharavi. (marked in red on the map below)
Although Acharavi relies heavily on tourism throughout the summer months, there is a big enough residential population in the area to keep many of the shops, cafes and tavernas in the town open throughout the winter too.
This meant that even out-of-season the town always looked quite lively.
Out and About
The home hosts kindly left us their car to use during our stay so getting around was no problem.
Corfu Town
The beautiful, historic, Corfu Town (or ‘Kerkyra’ in Greek) is halfway down the island’s east coast. About an hours drive from where we were staying.
The town is one of the island’s most iconic landmarks and is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
We loved wandering the maze of narrow cobblestone streets, lined with pastel-coloured buildings, and admiring the beautiful Venetian-style architecture.
Corfu out of season is a much more relaxing, authentic experience than the much busier summer tourist season.
November proved to be a perfect time of the year to visit.
The downside of visiting out of season is many businesses have closed up for the winter.
However, there is also a huge upside. There are very few tourists at this time of the year, and none of the noise and chaos they invariably bring with them.
One place in Corfu town we loved to sit, drink coffee, and spend a while people-watching was the Liston Promenade.
This is one of the most famous areas of Corfu town. It runs along Spianada Square, the largest square in Greece.
The elegant promenade, with its Venetian-style arches, was designed by the French architect Louis-François Gauthier to create a place for the local and visiting elite to stroll along.
Its beautiful architecture and bustling atmosphere help it continue to be the perfect (and pricey!) place for both tourists and locals to relax during a busy day working or sightseeing in the town.
The Old Fortress
The Old Fortress of Corfu is a historic landmark of Corfu town and dominates the skyline.
The fortress was originally built in the 15th century by the Venetians to protect the island from Ottoman invasions.
The fortress was designed to be impenetrable, with thick walls, high towers, and a deep moat which defended the island from various invaders, including the Ottomans, the French, and the British.
The moat is still used today. However nowadays it is used as a mooring place for boats.
The old fortress is one of Corfu’s most visited attractions and gives visitors stunning views of the surrounding sea and the city.
The Church of St George
Within the falls of the old fortress is the Church of Saint George.
The church was built in 1840 during British rule over Corfu and was a military church for the British troops stationed there.
Unlike the more traditional Byzantine or Venetian-style churches typically found in Greece, this church is designed in a neoclassical style, influenced by ancient Greek architecture.
Its façade has six huge columns that look more like a classical temple than a traditional Christian church.
Villages
As we were staying in the mountainous north of Corfu we often found ourselves passing through small, mountain villages when driving around exploring the area.
More often than not, the temptation to stop and explore these villages was too great.
Some were well occupied, some less so, and others completely derelict.
All came with their unique charm and character
Nymfes
Built on the side of a small valley of Mount Pantocrator, is the beautiful village of Nymfes.
Our trip here didn’t quite go to plan.
The village is most famous for its waterfalls. Unfortunately, we couldn’t find them!
To be fair the total signage consisted of one hand-painted arrow pointing vaguely to the left. After that you were on your own.
After a bit of internet searching, we now know that we gave up the search a moment too soon. It just seemed to us that we had walked a long way with no clue so must be walking in the wrong direction.
Not to worry, our day was far from wasted.
We still spent a very enjoyable half a day in and around Nymths exploring the lovely village and the woodlands surrounding it.
We would definitely recommend Nymphs as a place to visit, but before you go, be sure to get directions to the waterfalls!
Peritheia
Nestled in the northern slopes of Mount Pantokrator is Peritheia, Corfu’s oldest village.
Peritheia dates back to the Byzantine era and was once a thriving hub for shepherds, traders, and farmers. Its location, high in the mountain, well away from the coast, kept it safe from attacks.
Today, the village is mostly derelict but still beautiful with lots of Venetian architecture to see although most of it is in a bad state of repair and overgrown by nature.
This hidden gem, often referred to as a ghost village thankfully is not completely devoid of life.
Strolling through the cobblestone streets was really interesting. Although most of the 130 stone houses in Peritheia are in various states of decay, a handful have been lovingly restored and others are in the process of being renovated.
A couple of tavernas, a small hotel and several churches are scattered around the village. There is even a thriving honey-producing business nestled amongst the ruins.
All helping to keep the village alive and offering a welcome to the mainly summer tourists who want to see more of Corfu than the beaches and Corfu town.
Visiting Peritheia is a must when in Corfu. It’s not just a day out, it is a journey back in time.
Hiking
When possible we enjoy leaving the car at home and hiking instead.
It’s a great way to discover new places that are often not accessible when driving.
One day, as our house sit was located halfway up a mountain, we decided to hike higher up.
Every turn on the little-used trek revealed something new and interesting.
Along with the bee hives randomly scattered on the mountainside, olive trees which were all netted and ready to harvest, and breathtaking views, we stumbled upon a whole, abandoned village!
The village had long since been abandoned by those who once lived there and was in a state of disrepair. Roofs and walls collapsed. Yet shelving attached to walls and water, or maybe wine barrels, still lying around were proof of life in another time.
We could only clamber around the houses, wondering about their history and the secrets they hold.
When and why did the villagers give up on their homes in such a beautiful location?
Beaches
Corfu is famous for its beautiful beaches, where you can enjoy the clear, turquoise waters of the Ionian Sea and as we were in full holiday mode we visited quite a few of them.
Luckily for us, as most tourists had gone home, and most locals would not dream of going to the beach once August ends, we mostly had the beaches to ourselves.
Acharavi Beach
This was our local beach. It was just a short drive from where we were staying so we visited most days for a dip in the sea.
it was very convenient for us to get to, the water was clean, safe, and, in November, warm enough to swim in.
Kassiopi Beaches
Driving about twenty minutes along the northeast coast took us to the pretty historic village of Kassiopi.
The main centre of Kassiopi is its harbour, lined with fishing boats, luxury yachts, and an array of waterfront cafes and tavernas.
The harbour was an excellent spot for resting our weary legs, enjoying a drink, and people-watching whilst enjoying the November sunshine, and beautiful views of the Ionian Sea.
Kassiopi is not short on beaches. There are at least five. All are beautiful and many are tucked into small coves, giving a sense of privacy and tranquillity.
Not that we needed more peace and tranquillity as we were usually the only two on the beach!
Kerasia Beach
Driving farther along the northeast coast towards Corfu Town is the beautiful and tranquil beach of Kerasia
We visited this beach twice. The first time we were not sure how exactly to get to it in the car so ended up doing quite a hike down the mountain. Once on the beach looking up, the road we needed was clearer so the second time we went, we drove right onto the beach.
The hike was a bit strenuous, especially on the way back. The drive was a longer route and along twisty, and steep roads.
Neither mattered though as we loved it here.
For summer beachgoers, there is a small shop and taverna, although both were closed for winter when we visited.
The water is turquoise and crystal clear and the beach is surrounded by forests, walking paths and olive groves.
Add to this the stunning views of the Albanian coastline across the Ionian Sea and it is easy to see why this is seen as one of Corfu’s hidden gems.
If you’re planning a visit to Corfu and looking for a peaceful spot with natural beauty, Kerasia Beach is an excellent choice!
Agios Georgios Beach
This beach was the most difficult for us to get to.
Located on the northwest coast of Corfu, it took us well over an hour to get there but, as with all the beaches we visited, the final destination was well worth the journey.
I would say this was probably our favourite beach.
Its long stretch of sandy coastline was ideal for sunbathing and the crystal-clear water was really shallow meaning swimming was very safe.
Bars, shops and cafes lined the beach meaning it must get busy during the holiday season but the journey to get here is not the easiest so I think, even during the summer months, Agios Georgios Beach would be less crowded compared to most other popular Corfu beaches.
Logas ‘Beach’
We had read that Logas beach in the pretty village of Peroulades is the best beach in Corfu for views. It is also know as the sunset beach as the best sunsets can be seen from here.
On arrival, we saw with our own eyes the power of nature. The beach no longer existed!
In late 2023 a huge storm hit this part of Corfu and completely swept it away.
The visit was still worthwhile if only to see the magnificent views and dramatic huge vertical cliffs that dropped into the ocean.
Unfortunately, we were too early to see the sunset this area is famous for.
Hopefully, we will get to experience that on another visit to this beautiful island of Corfu.
Where Next?
We loved our time in Corfu and will definitely be returning in the future.
Our month here flew by. We have been really lucky with the weather and hopefully, this will continue for us throughout December as next, we have managed to secure a month-long house sit in Paphos, Cyprus.
First, though, we have to go to pick up Karyos mum as we have arranged for her to join us for our Christmas 2024 house sit.
More on that next time.
Until then, as always, thanks for taking the time to read our house sitting updates.
Hugs, Colin & Karyo
